Anyone who knows me well knows how much I love Beijing. I fell for the city not long after arriving in 2009, and that feeling has only deepened over the years as I've continued to explore it. Now that I hold a "Five-Star Card" (Foreign Permanent Resident ID Card), I can finally, without hesitation, call it "home".
When people ask what I like most about Beijing, I usually keep it simple: it's a city of contrasts. Old and new, tradition and modernity, nature and concrete, all layered into one place. What I love is that I don't have to choose between them. I can enjoy everything a modern city offers: skyscrapers, same-day delivery, endless food options, while still being able to wander into places steeped in history and culture.
There's such a dense concentration of temples, parks, palaces, and museums that when I first arrived, even after spending most weekends exploring for six months, I still felt like I had barely scratched the surface.
Running has always been my favorite way to discover a place. Wherever I travel, I bring a pair of running shoes. I've run in cities all across China and around the world, but the one I know best is the one I've lived in for the past 16 years: Beijing. Over time, running through its streets, I've watched it change.
Some of those changes are obvious. The skyline keeps rising, with buildings growing taller year after year. Beijing now even has one over 500 meters! The subway network has expanded to reach almost everywhere.
Other changes feel more personal. The air is noticeably better. As a runner, that matters a lot! There used to be days when I would cancel a run because of heavy smog. It's now becoming rare. Gone are the days when checking the air quality index was the first thing I did after waking up.
The rise of shared bikes and electric vehicles has likely played a role in this. Over the years, I've watched them quietly reshape the way people move around the city, especially for short distances.
That said, I sometimes miss the rough, slightly chaotic energy of earlier days: the street vendors, the makeshift stalls, the ease of grabbing something to eat on the go, the lively barbecue corners, the bargaining in night markets... There was a kind of spontaneity to it all.
Maybe that's why I'm still drawn to the hutongs, where life seems to have changed less, and where that atmosphere still lingers.
Of course, that kind of trade-off is probably inevitable. A cleaner, more orderly city often means letting go of something else…
[Photo via the official WeChat account of Longtan Central Park]
When I need a break from the pace of the city, I turn to its parks. Step inside, and everything slows down. The Temple of Heaven, with its more traditional feel, is one of my favorites. So is Longtan Central Park, which feels more modern and now even has a proper running track. A bit farther out, but well worth it, is Beijing Olympic Forest Park, a true haven for runners.
My relationship with the city has changed over time as well. The initial excitement isn't as intense as it once was, but it hasn't disappeared. It's simply taken a different form. What remains is something steadier, a deeper attachment. Like any long relationship, what begins as excitement gradually settles into something more lasting.
I haven't lost that sense of wonder entirely. It just shows up in quieter moments now, often when I pass by one of Beijing's historical sites, especially during long runs on the weekend. Maybe it's because, while China has many modern cities, only a few have such a rich concentration of well-preserved and meaningful historical landmarks. Beijing has done an impressive job protecting—and sometimes restoring—these places.
One of my favorite routes is along the Second Ring Road. Thanks to the "Beijing Greenway" project, it's now possible to run almost the entire loop without stopping at a single traffic light: the "Second Ring Urban Greenway." The full loop is about 33 kilometers and passes by landmarks like Yonghegong Lama Temple, Yongdingmen, the Temple of Heaven, and the remains of the Ming City Wall.
And if I don't feel like running the whole loop, or just want a different view, I can always turn off—Jinbao Street, Chaoyangmen, Dongsi Shitiao, Dongzhimen—and from there, pass by nearly all the places I love: the Forbidden City, Beihai Park, Nanluoguxiang, the Bell and Drum Towers, you name it. There's always something to see.
In those moments, I'm reminded how lucky I am to live here. My footsteps join those of countless others, famous or ordinary, who have moved through this city before me. Together, in ways big and small, they've shaped the Beijing we see today.
(Author: Fabien Loudet)
